Pinot

The Dow Jones Inexpensive Pinot Noir Index
In a tasting of American Pinot Noir around $20 or less from the 2005 and 2006 vintages, these were our favorites. We paid less than $20 for Mondavi, Willamette Valley and Frei, but their more-representative prices are higher.
VINEYARD/VINTAGE
PRICE
RATING
TASTERS' COMMENTS
Robert Mondavi Winery 2005 (Carneros)
$23.00*
Very Good
Best of tasting. The real thing: rich, with deep, Bing cherry fruit, gentle tannins and a long, dry, pure-fruit finish. Good balance of fruit, acidity and weight. Could age a bit.
Frey Vineyards 2006 (Mendocino)
$15.99
Very Good
Best value. Ephemeral and very fine, with some nice Burgundy-like funkiness to add character. Very real and special. It's organic, with no detectable sulfites, so make sure it has been kept well, and drink it soon.
Willamette Valley Vineyards "Whole Cluster Fermented" 2006 (Willamette Valley, Ore.)
$22.00*
Very Good
Jammy and jazzy, like Beaujolais, and just as delightful. Pure, clean, lovely fruit that says, "Let's party!"
Beringer Founders' Estate 2005 (California)
$9.99
Good/ Very Good
Light, pleasant and very easy, bursting with fresh cherry fruit. Fun. Repeat favorite.
Bogle Vineyards 2005 (Russian River Valley)
$11.99
Good/ Very Good
Especially good with food. Lovely, simple fruit, nicely dry with a dash of lemon, happy to be a supporting player in a meal. A good name in value-priced wine.
Chateau St. Jean 2005 (Sonoma County)
$19.99
Good/ Very Good
Rich, with some depth, mouthfeel and earth. Bigger and more serious than most, requiring more substantial food.
Francis Coppola "Diamond Collection, Silver Label" 2006 (California)
$17.00*
Good/ Very Good
Pleasant and comforting, with an easy delivery of black cherries and cranberries. Charming. Can take a chill. Reliable name.
Frei Brothers "Reserve" 2005 (Russian River Valley)
$22.50*
Good/ Very Good
Quite pleasant, with lovely, ripe fruit. Some richness, earth and minerals. Real wine. Repeat favorite.
Sipino (Yamhill Valley Vineyards) 2005 (Willamette Valley, Ore.)
$16.99
Good/ Very Good
Interesting. It starts with lots of juicy blackberries, but then turns slightly viney and herbal, in a good, true way. Very drinkable, but also complex enough to hold interest.
NOTE: Wines are rated on a scale that ranges: Yech, OK, Good, Very Good, Delicious, and Delicious! These are the prices we paid at wine stores in New Jersey and New York.
*We paid $19.99 for Mondavi, $18.29 for Willamette Valley, $18.99 for Coppola and $19.99 for Frei Brothers, but these prices appear to be more representative. Prices vary widely.
--Melanie Grayce West contributed to this column